Getting Real About Resale
The rise of in-house resale
Hi reader,
Firstly, thank you for subscribing to something borrowed, never new. Last week we chatted about the evolution of this newsletter, which will now be centered on topics at the intersection of sustainability and style. If you want a recap, you can read issue #1 here.
Today we’re diving into the world of branded in-house resale. To understand why resale is an important topic, we need to grasp the scale of waste the apparel industry creates:
Of the 100 billion garments produced each year, 92 million tonnes end up in landfills.
That’s 85% of clothing that ends up in a landfill or incinerator
Earlier this year it was reported that around 59,000 tons of clothing are dumped in Chile's deserts annually (photo below).
Getty Images
Brands and consumers are responsible for this clothing waste, no matter how ethically it is produced or sold. The best thing we can do for the planet at this stage is to never purchase anything, ever again. I realize for most consumers, this is simply not possible. So, how can you buy the things you need, without contributing to the waste? While you can try to reduce the number of new items you purchase, when shopping, consider buying secondhand. As you can see from the above photo, there is more than enough apparel already out there in the world.
There are so many ways to shop secondhand these days. Platforms like Poshmark, Depop, Fashionphile, Vestiaire Collective, and TheRealReal, the latter of which even has storefronts. Thousands of Instagram accounts function as secondhand stores, and of course we still have good old-fashioned, brick-and-mortar thrift shops. Most recently, a lot of your favorite brands are now reselling preloved items directly on their own websites.
What exactly is in-house resale? Simply put, it’s when a brand resells its own products on their website or store. In some cases, the brand hosts the platform, and sales are peer-to-peer. The majority of resale of the backend is run by a 3rd party tech platform, the main players in this space are Trove, Recurate, Treet, and Archive. (list of brands offering resale at the end of this issue)
Resale is expected to double in the next 5 years, growing 11x faster than overall retail. - according to the resale platform Archive.
We first started to see this concept emerge with value-driven brands, such as Eileen Fisher, Patagonia, and Mara Hoffman. It makes sense, sustainability is embedded in these brands, so taking back their clothes, repairing, and then reselling, scales them from a linear business to a circular business model.
Now, we’re seeing some big brands like Levi’s and lululemon enter the space. I think in addition to giving them some sustainability cred, they saw a business opportunity, as their products went to the resale market without giving them any piece of that pie. Vintage Levi’s has always been a thrift store staple—I shopped at a store in Spain this Summer that mainly sold re-worked old Levi’s, and found so many unique, perfectly worn-in pairs. While this will continue to take place on independent platforms and stores, bringing resale in-house gives Levi’s access to a brand new customer segment and revenue stream they did not have before.
Even some luxury brands have joined the push for circularity. Oscar de la Renta wanted to control the quality of their archival pieces, so they launched Encore. Gucci jumped on board with Gucci Vault, which also showcases pieces by up-and-coming designers. Amazon has even seen the opportunity in resale with their recently announced partnership with What Goes Around Comes Around.
Beyond the obvious business case, brands also benefit when they control the conversation around their products. The reduced price point can make items more accessible, which could also draw in new customers. It’s not a coincidence that resale is rising during a recession. According to the National Association of Resale & Thrift Shops (NARTS) survey, there was a rise in resale in 2009 following the 2008 recession.
Now we’re seeing fast fashion players entering the space. Earlier this month, Zara launched their own resale platform (as of now, only in the UK as a test market). Personally, I’m more excited to hear about the repair and rental programs they are building alongside resale. Ultra-fast fashion brand Shein also launched a peer-to-peer resale platform. Neither brand plans on being profitable from the new programs.
While I normally have nothing nice to say about fast fashion, it’s not all bad: launching these programs creates more opportunities for consumers to enter the resale market. Plus, it opens up the conversation around circularity, especially with the gen-z demographic, helping de-stigmatize wearing something secondhand.
But don’t be fooled by their greenwashing! Shein’s global head of ESG said, “We believe that it is our responsibility to build a future of fashion that is equitable for all, while also accelerating solutions to reduce textile waste.” A resale program doesn’t address what would actually reduce textile waste: manufacturing less clothing, using regenerative materials, and not promoting over-consumption. Shein items are not built for longevity—there is evidence of shoes melting and breaking on the first wear. If an item falls apart and is disposed of after the first few wears, how will it have a 2nd, 3rd, or 4th life on the resale market?
All of this is to say—what choices do you have as a consumer?
The most common roadblock I hear from people shopping secondhand is “I don’t know how to find what I'm looking for.” I get it—it’s a time-consuming art to find exactly what you're looking for on Poshmark, or a gem hidden deep in a thrift store—but having resale on a brand’s owned site takes away that obstacle. You might already know you like the style or fit of a brand, so it’s an easy transition to shop preloved pieces the brand authenticates as well.
Next time you’re shopping, consider if the brand offers resale, a better alternative to buying new. Always also, consider what are their other brand values. What materials are they using? Do they pay their garment workers a living wage? (Shein does not, but that’s a focus for another issue.) Will the garment last?
Something Borrowed, Never New Fall Fashion Resale Selects
Boyish NWT (new with tags!) Ziggy Straight Leg Jean
Mara Hoffman Extended Bodycon dress
Mara Hoffman NWT Turtleneck Sweater
Another Tomorrow Merino Wool Sweater
lululemon Sherpa Jacket- in so many sizes and colors!
lululemon Men’s Zip-up Jacket, also in various sizes and colors!
Clare V. Fringe Foldover Clutch
Re/done Highrise Flare Jean
Rachel Comey Black Dress - would be cute for upcoming holiday parties!
Patagonia ReCrafted Down Jacket
Outerknown Men’s Rambler Shirt
Gucci 1970s Vintage Suede Skirt- a splurge!
Coach restored Horse and Carriage Print Purse
Cuyana Leather Tote
Looking for something else and want help finding it secondhand? Reach out!
Brands currently offering in-house resale
Allbirds Rerun
Another Tomorrow Resale
Arc’teryx Used Gear
Balenciaga Re-sell
Boyish Consignment Shop
Clare V. Le Resale
Coach (Re)loved
Cuyana Revive
Diesel Secondhand
Hand me Doên
Gucci Vault
Levi’s Secondhand Shop
Lululemon Likenew
Maje Second Main
Mara Hoffman Full Circle Resale
Oscar de la Renta Encore
Outerknown Outerworn Preloved
Patagonia Worn Wear
Rachel Comey Resale
Re/done Re/sell
REI Re/supply
The Northface Renewed
Tonlé Open Closet
Valentino Vintage - in select stores
7 for All Mankind 7 Revival
Want to keep learning about the resale market? the Hot Buttons podcast is another great resource. Listen to their episode with Andy Ruben the founder of Trove.
Something borrowed, nothing new is written by Hilliary and edited by Juliana Radich.
Hilliary is a climate advocate who is passionate about sustainability practices within the fashion industry. She has ten years of experience working in fashion marketing and recently graduated from Columbia University with a Master’s in Sustainability.
That Patagonia jacket 😍
Love the ideas and suggestions! Would you consider doing a weekly series on your finds??